Ryan’s
Notebook

Caulking a Tub Surround: It’s only a matter of time before the caulk in the joint between the top of the bathtub and the surround gets grungy and should be replaced. But many people put off this task because they have a hard time laying down an even bead of caulk. And when they do, sometimes it just doesn’t stick. A proper job is a matter of good prep – the step everyone forgets. The routine I follow works on just about all bath surfaces, from cast iron to fiberglass.

First, cut away all the existing caulk – and I mean all of it – with a utility knife or single-edge razor blade. Then, clean out the joint and edges of the tub and surround with a bathroom cleaner to get rid of any soap scum. Rinse the area well, let dry completely, and wipe it down with a rag moistened in lacquer thinner to remove any water or residue left by the cleaner. Finally, mask off both sides of the joint with painter’s tape to allow for caulking to be applied.

If the tub has been recently resurfaced, the tape or lacquer thinner may leave a discoloration, and should not be used. A resurfaced tub needs 3 or 4 days to be solvent resistant, so it may be best to use nothing but water for those first few days.

Fill the joint with caulking that includes a mildewcide, and smooth it immediately with your finger. Caulking dries quickly, so work fast. I find that it smoothes more easily if I first dip my finger in water or lacquer thinner. Now, slowly remove the tape, and smooth out any ridges left by the tape with one quick pass of a moistened finger.

Please allow for the caulking to dry at least 24 hours before using the tub. This allows sufficient time for the caulking to harden and seal in the gap between the tub and the enclosure.

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